Hi all,
apart from dxomark where it gives specific numbers (ratings) of the lenses for specific bodies I do not know any other site that takes into account the mpixels of a given site when rating a lens.
For example I have heard many times that the nikon d800 cameras are very "demanding" on lenses and thus many times you have to stop down a lot your lens to get good performance in the 30+ Mpixels rate.
I find that rather confusing wonderng if in the past we did not have good optics.
For example I am currently asking for two olderr lenses
1. http://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/nikon/28-105mm-f3.5-4.5d-af-nikkor/review/ This is an old film lens. Why it can be considered as poor today?

2. the sigma 150 2.8 non-os macro lens. This one I can find reviews for older bodies like d200 (I think that is even a dx body). How can you "estimate" how much you can rely on older body reviews to predict older lenses performance to 24mpixels d750 bodies?
What do you do in such cases?
Regards

Hi all,

apart from dxomark where it gives specific numbers (ratings) of the lenses for specific bodies I do not know any other site that takes into account the mpixels of a given site when rating a lens.
For example I have heard many times that the nikon d800 cameras are very "demanding" on lenses and thus many times you have to stop down a lot your lens to get good performance in the 30+ Mpixels rate.
I find that rather confusing wonderng if in the past we did not have good optics.
For example I am currently asking for two olderr lenses
1. http://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/nikon/28-105mm-f3.5-4.5d-af-nikkor/review/ This is an old film lens. Why it can be considered as poor today?
2. the sigma 150 2.8 non-os macro lens. This one I can find reviews for older bodies like d200 (I think that is even a dx body). How can you "estimate" how much you can rely on older body reviews to predict older lenses performance to 24mpixels d750 bodies?
What do you do in such cases?
Regards

Van-tage Point

by Robert Watcher

Van-tage Point



PMT - Chimaltenango, Guatemala


Whistle While You Work - Chimaltenango, Guatemala


Hot Dog - Chimaltenango, Guatemala

El Texan

by Robert Watcher

El Texan

these young ladies took part in a TFCD shoot. I would like your input on how I did, and what you think should be changed for next time

Found an article about how to make beautiful night time here :

. I don't know if it is worth sharing but it helped me a bit. Hope it help anyone else. Other tips are also welcomed so please, if you have any tips to improve night time photography please let me know, i will gladly put them in practice.

I wish they had kept the functionality of the RM-1 remote control. It was so simple to use. The phone based Wi-Fi remote is a total PITA. After previously having paired the camera and phone, first the phone has to be turned on then the app selected before it is usable. Then one risks the phone powering down just before the crucial moment for the shot not to mention incoming calls and reminders. I'm now back to using a cable release whereas I previously I used the RM-1 for all tripod shots. Has anyone found a better way?

A Few Birds

by kmont

Haven't been out much lately; life sometimes interferes with photography!
Got these with the E-5, 300/2.8 lens & 2X tc.
Western Meadowlark, female Yellow-headed Blackbird, Upland Sandpiper, Canada Goose.

A photo that I took yesterday, reminded me of a situation that I came across this summer that I wasn't aware of. It is related to shooting with my Olympus E-M1 (I don't use it often with my street work) in Silent Shutter Mode.

I was sitting in a McDonalds here in Guatemala and grabbed a few natural light frames of people sitting there. Immediately I recognized the dark banding on the LCD screen - - - but it actually looked really cool. Like I was firing through blinds of some sort or the subject being lit by light streaming through blinds.

What I experienced earlier in the year when using the same camera at a concert in Ontario, is that one of the artifacts of using an electronic shutter (Silent Mode) in certain types of lighting - is this phenomena of dark lines going across the frame and interfering with the image. Of course when this happened at that time, I wasn't too happy and thought that I had a defective camera.

I soon came to the conclusion that it may be the electronic shutter and so when I went back to the normal shutter, the lines disappeared and the images were fine. I knew about issues with fluorescent and certain other artificial lights from shooting taking pics in hockey arenas in the past. So presumed that was causing the issue with the electronic shutter. SIMPLE SOLUTION - don't use it.

Here is the image that I took yesterday using the Silent Shutter - that reminded me of my previous experience - - - but that actually worked well creatively: